Cornae American Corn Snack, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Cornae American Corn Snack, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Ingredient list

Ingredient list

How could I resist a Bugle-like ‘American Corn Snack’? Totally cornae, I know, but I’ve always been a sucker for Bugles. Why anyone would ever have thought of making a snack food shaped like a bugle is beyond me—though, strangely, that question had never occurred to me before contemplating Cornae (which are, in case you were wondering, far inferior tastewise to Bugles).  Clean, hygienic, brittle, attractive, passes the muster of meticulous selection…like I said, how could I resist?

While I haven’t been writing anywhere near as much as I should be, I have been writing, at the very least, six words at a time.

And the fine folks at SMITH magazine are once again featuring my little six-across-the-globe project in their Editor’s Blog. In addition, they’ve made one of my recent posts today’s Six-Word Memoir of the Day. Both the blog post and the memoir can be found on the SMITH homepage, smithmag.net.

You can catch up on all the rest of my sixes from the past few months on my SMITH profile page. (And Editor Larry Smith’s post, conveniently, will catch you up on where I am now and why…another excuse for me not to write! Thanks, Larry! But no, really, I promise my overnight-in-a-Malaysian-hospital story soon.)

Slowly but surely getting my photos uploaded and ready for prime time. I’ve posted two new albums, the first from Kratie, my first stop in Cambodia, and my first day in which you may remember from The Facebook Chronicles: Outtake One.

Next one is Siem Reap, but just the town, not Angkor Wat, but that will be next. There are just so many photos to weed through. Which is how I’ve managed to put it off for four months. I do hope to get it done—and get them to you—soon.

Meantime, hope you enjoy these!

After four months in Cambodia, most of it spent in Phnom Penh, I’m getting set to move on. I’ve booked a ticket to Kuala Lumpur and leave in less than two weeks. My plan is to explore Malaysia and then Indonesia (and that is literally the extent of my plan as it currently exists). The other day I was thinking that the only thing I’m really sad about is leaving here ‘my girls,’ as I have come to think of them. As I have mentioned, though I suppose only in passing, I have been teaching English to teenage girls who are in an aftercare program run by an NGO here. They were all victims of child sex trafficking, and live with foster families here in Phnom Penh because it is unsafe for them to return to live with their families (some of whom, sorry to say, actually sold their young daughters into sexual slavery).

So I was thinking about my girls and remembered that I had never posted the links to some videos about them on here as I’d meant to do. And so I am remedying that now. Read the rest of this entry »

For the last few weeks (possibly even a month) I have had on my to-do list a notation to go up to Street 172 here in Phnom Penh to take photos. ‘Street 172 pics’—I was constantly rewriting it at the bottom of each new scrap of paper. Almost as soon as I’d written it down the first time, however, I’d already forgotten what it was I’d seen there. But I knew it involved more than one prime photo (of the day) opportunity. And so I reminded myself to go back.

Well, I finally went last weekend and was I ever rewarded. As I walked down the street, greeted with one amusing sign after another, all I could think was, ‘Wow…the street that keeps on giving!’ It gave so much, in fact, that I decided to post the photos as an album instead of separate photos of the day.

You can view the album here, and here’s hoping you enjoy this little journey of discovery as much as I did!

First of all, thanks to those who gave me such positive feedback on ‘Dear motodup driver,’ and for sharing their own absurb Asian transport tales with me. I was especially gratified by these responses because, frankly, I had hesitated to post that piece, as I was concerned I came off sounding mean and/or condescending. The other thing these exchanges did was remind me of some things I should have included in the original post. Therefore, and herewith, an addendum: Read the rest of this entry »

Mia is oppressed by her new and disturbing compulsion of being able to think only in Facebook status updates, and wishes she could stop. But since she cannot, she gives you, without further adieu, her first blog post: a travel tale told in Facebook-status-update-eze.

(For those of you unfamiliar with Facebook, yes, this is all going to be in the third person.)

The Facebook Chronicles: Week One
a travel tale, Facebook-style

Read the rest of this entry »

Greetings from Tacome Pai, an organic farm in northern Thailand, just outside the very touristy town of Pai (which I have not yet ventured into) and four hours north of Chiang Mai (which, yes, I finally left—at least temporarily).

Here on the farm (which is also a guest house) we cook our food outside on fires, sleep in huts, husk rice (it was just harvested and we came specifically for the harvest festival, which ended last night and featured lots of great music), drink homemade (not by me!) rice whiskey and, yes, have wireless access (though I am the only one traveling with a laptop). Read the rest of this entry »

The fact that the first song I heard after touching ground in Thailand—played in the bathroom in the Bangkok airport, no less—was the theme from The Godfather was, I figured, probably not a very good sign.

And it did turn out to be something of an omen of things to come. First I left my brand-new Swiss-made one-sheet-of-aluminum water bottle, which my best friend had given me as a going-away present the day before, on the plane. When I realized this, I had to ask at least five airport and airline personnel (miming ‘water bottle’ each time) before I found the one person who could help me. She radioed the cabin crew but no luck. The report came back over the walkie talkie: no sign of it. Read the rest of this entry »

The Facebook Chronicles: Outtake One
A day in Kratie, Cambodia

Mia…

gets out of bed with a plan for the day, for once. And a somewhat ambitious one at that.

will rent a bike, take it on a boat to an island, bike around for a few hours, come back, rest and eat if there is time, and leave by 4 pm for the hour bike ride needed to catch the dolphins feeding at sunset.

is disappointed that the hot water she changed rooms for (and paid more for) is lukewarm at best.

sorts out boiled eggs to go and a bicycle rental but remains unable to get WaMu to mail her a new ATM card to either Cambodia or her home address in New York.

Read the rest of this entry »

OK, perhaps my level of excitement when I realized I was *thisclose* to a whole bunch of frolicking monkeys at Angkor Wat a few weeks back was unwarranted. But I have no trouble admitting it; I was damned excited (there was a teeny tiny baby monkey, after all). And took video. And so the other day, after struggling with a still-broken laptop, figuring out new and creative and not-so-creative ways to preserve my photos and other documents, and spending literally a week trying to upload these damned videos, I have finally attained monkey video upload success.

And so, without further adieu, for your viewing pleasure, feel free to visit my youtube page. (Unfortunately there is sound as well on my camera, so at some point in one of these I think you may hear evidence of just how excited I was. Of course, later I found out these monkeys are quite a common sight around the main temple, but still…I was personally really happy to get to spend part of my afternoon watching them.)

Hope you enjoy!

PS If you haven’t visited my SMITH profile page yet (or even if you have), I encourage you to do so (again?), as I’ve added photos to many of the entries (some with commentary…just click on ‘backstory.’ Turns out SMITH actually gives you more than six words in which to tell a story—which you know for me can be dangerous…).

Greetings from Phnom Penh, Cambodia. I have two pieces of news I’m quite excited about that I wanted to share with you—both related to my favorite online magazine, SMITH, a community of which I also happen to be a member.

Some of you may have heard of SMITH, as it is the originator of the Six-Word Memoir, which started out as a project on the website, became a New York Times bestselling book and then basically went on to become a worldwide sensation. You can read more about the project and the first book, Not Quite What I Was Planning, here.

Read the rest of this entry »

A bit of background for you:

Motodups are motorbike taxis, and they are everywhere in Phnom Penh—and I mean everywhere. Except when you actually need one. Only then will they not materialize out of thin air before you’ve even closed your front door. Only then will they appear to disappear from the face of the earth. Only then will you actually have to stand in the street looking for one to flag down.

My plan was to write ‘Ode to a Motodup’ to explain to the uninitiated the intricacies of how this system works. But I’ve opted instead for the simple, direct, time-tested epistolary form, which I think will convey all you really need to know.

Read the rest of this entry »

Thanks to strong and convenient internet connections (thank you, Vietnam) and time ‘off’ (thank you, Khmer New Year), I’ve put some more albums online:

Ban Lung, Ratanakiri Province, where I did a three-day jungle trek;

some more Phnom Penh fun;

and, yes, rice mysteriously laid out to dry on the street.

A full listing of photo albums can be found by clicking here or on the ‘Photos’ link above.

Also, if you look at the menu above, you’ll see I’ve added a new page I’m calling ‘Post archive for the lazy.’ There you’ll find links to all past posts.

I may not have seen any sites in Dalat yet, but at least I’ve improved the blog!

Apologies to both you and ‘my girls.’ The organization I was volunteering for has asked me to remove the photos and videos of the girls from the web, as by posting them I was unknowingly violating their policy. I did have some concerns about posting them to begin with but felt that it was fairly anonymous, as I didn’t use the name of the organization, and also, as you know from my previous post, I knew that the MSNBC videos were out there for all to see.

I have since learned that the girls agreed to do the video (and only 4 out of the 10 who were asked did so) and they signed a release, etc. In any case, I of course do not want to endanger any of the girls (some of whom apparently have court cases pending, another thing of which I was unaware) and want to respect the wishes and policies of the organization, so they have been removed.

Note left in hotel room safe, Le Meridien Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Note left in hotel room safe, Le Meridien Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Yes, I really did this. I know it’s crazy, but…what else to do? Someone on staff at the fanciest hotel in town stole $20 out of my money belt (I only knew because I’d just counted it when I arrived.). From inside a locked safe. I didn’t want to make a fuss but I did want my money back. So I wrote this and put it in the safe and…voila! Next day, my missing $20 was back. I actually couldn’t believe it. I counted and recounted, as I’d done the day before when I realized it was missing, thinking mabye I’d just gone crazy. Nope. I may be crazy for other reasons, but that $20 was gone. And then it wasn’t. No doubt about it.


Note left the next day, Le Meridien Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Note left the next day, Le Meridien Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia

OK, I admit it was ridiculous for me to then start moralizing. But the catlady in me won out and I left this note locked in the safe the next day. Unfortunately, it was the day I was leaving, and while I was in the process of checking out, duh, the staff went to check the room for me (I’m used to more backpacker-type guest houses where you leave something behind, well, that’s your problem.). Someone came and told me I’d left the safe locked. Obviously they could open it and reset the code (or otherwise figure out my code, as the staff person with the sticky fingers had clearly done previously), but their concern was that I’d left something in there. I reassured them that I was certain I hadn’t and they were free to open it. I can’t imagine what the person who did so (presuming it was not Mr. or Ms. Sticky Fingers his- or herself) thought when they saw the note.

Right before I left, the hotel manager came over to chat and ask if my stay was OK. He handed me his card along with a very kind offer to assist me with anything I might need during my stay in Cambodia since it was not, in his estimation, an easy place for a foreigner. I wavered about telling him what had happened, but ended up keeping my promise to the thief. So to this day I don’t know if whoever found the note just threw it away or figured out what it meant and turned it over to someone. I suspect the former.

As you may have gleaned from my recent photos of the day, I was in Vietnam last week, as I had to renew my visa for Cambodia again, and used it as an excuse to see some friends and breathe some cool mountain air. The photo album, which includes Saigon and Dalat, is online and ready for viewing. You can find it here. Enjoy!

ABC Bakery snack, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

ABC Bakery snack, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

I found a new bus company to go to Saigon with this time around. And while you might think I love them for their ‘finest gentle taste’ (this is the breakfast they give you—basically a sweeter hot-dog-bun-type bread with some sweet green bean paste at the bottom) or their wide comfy seats with only three across the aisle so if you sit on right, as I did for both legs of the trip, you get to sit by yourself.

No. What I love most about RAC Express Bus is that when I forgot something at home in the morning and was asking if I would have enough time to hop on a moto and go home, get it and come back, and was in negotiations with two fellow passengers to watch my backpack and not let the bus leave without me (it was ten minutes until departure time but the bus was nowhere in sight, so I was sure I would have enough time), the uniformed bus company employee—the one whom I’d assumed was the bus driver and who’d given us the gentle bread and water upon arrival at the sidewalk booth (no bus stations here)—insisted on driving me himself. In the company minivan. He actually came over and got me as I was about to get on a moto, opened the passenger side door for me and that was that. Now that is above-and-beyond customer service I dare you to match…anywhere!

The upshot: We were gone not more than 10 minutes, but when we arrived almost everyone was already on the bus—everyone Except the young couple faithfully watching my backpack on the sidewalk. And I learned I wasn’t with the bus driver at all (which I’d seen as my safety valve). But…a happy ending.

(Please note I am refraining from commenting on the ad on the sidewalk cafe table on which the gentle bread was placed, but have no doubt I placed it there on purpose.)